Product Care

Having trouble deciphering the symbols on the tag of your garment? We’ve got you covered. The Federal Trade Commission’s product care symbol guide will explain everything—and help you keep your gear in great shape.

Washing instructions are printed on a white tag inside our garments. Following our garment care instructions will help make sure that your gear has a long, interesting life. In general, washing your gear in cold or warm water with mild laundry soap (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and drying it on the line are the best ways to clean Patagonia® products.

Given the rumpled nature of the road trips that inspire so much of our gear, Patagonia doesn’t make anything that requires dry cleaning. Our clothes are made to be worn and washed with very little fuss. More importantly, the EPA estimates that 85% of the dry cleaners in America use perchloroethylene, or “perc,” to clean garments and textile products. This chemical solvent has significant human and environmental risks. We make clothes that wear and perform beautifully without all that.

Generally, we don’t recommend using fabric conditioners or softeners on our products. Adding fabric softener or dryer sheets to your laundering process can increase softness but it achieves the improved hand feel by depositing waxy agents on the surface of the fabric. This waxy residue left behind on your clothes may: impair moisture wicking and quick-dry fabrics from doing their job; inhibit odor control; reduce the longevity of spandex; and worst of all, stop your DWR from performing its job.

In general, Patagonia garments do not require ironing. However, if you’re trying to make a good impression on “the parents” and you want to sharpen the crease down the front of your pants after an afternoon of bouldering, you should check the iron symbol on the care label of your garment first to make sure it can be safely ironed. If the iron symbol has a line through it, don’t iron. The dots on the label correspond to how much heat you should use—fewer dots mean less heat.

For a guide to the product care symbols that you may see on our clothing care tags, click here.

Line dry your clothing whenever possible. Turn bright or dark items inside out to reduce fading, including jeans. Hang shirts from the bottom, and pants and skirts from the waistband so the clothespin marks are in a less conspicuous spot. Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact.

For some items you will need to use a dryer to get maximum performance out of your gear. Drying waterproof/breathable fabrics on a medium/warm setting will help to renew the fabric’s durable water repellent (DWR) finish, which keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated in wet conditions. If you want to get the highest loft and coziness out of your down pieces, check out Down Cleaning/Down Care section below.

Putting your synthetic clothing into a filter bag, such as the Guppy Friend Wash Bag, before washing by hand or machine can significantly reduce the flow of microfibers into your drain. The easy-to-use Guppy Friend is available at patagonia.com and our stores throughout the United States and Europe. Another option is a permanent washing machine filter (requires some plumbing expertise). For both options, make sure you clean out your filter bags after a few washes when you can visually see that fibers have collected. Wipe the fibers out with your finger and put the fibers in your trash bin.

Use a down-specific detergent and follow the directions on the bottle. Traditional detergent can strip down of its natural oils and negatively affect the loft and performance. Do not use fabric softener or bleach.

A front-loading washing machine is preferred, though a top-loader will work just fine on a hand-wash or delicate setting.

Down items will have better loft, which directly equates to better performance (keeping you warm), if you use a dryer on low heat rather than line drying. To help break up clumps and redistribute the down, include 2 clean tennis balls or a large heavy-cotton bath towel in the dryer. Be patient, it will take a few dryer cycles to be completely dry and lump-free.

Most waterproof/breathable shells on the market are treated with a Durable Water-Repellant finish (DWR) which keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated so the breathable barrier can do its job of keeping you comfy and dry.

Remember, a clean shell is a happy shell. Be sure to wash your waterproof/breathable garments and regularly replenish their water-repellent coating. Drying waterproof/breathable fabrics on a medium/warm setting will help to renew the fabric’s durable water repellent (DWR) finish.

After many adventures and washings, your waterproof/breathable garment will require more than a simple washing and drying to revive the DWR finish. When water no longer beads up on the garment, it’s time to turn to a spray-on solution which you can find at your favorite outdoor gear shop.

A thorough rinse with fresh water after each outing is essential. Putting your wading gear away wet or not rinsing with fresh water can lead to damaging mold growth and eventual degradation of the fabric. Similarly, high heat and moisture can cause irreparable damage, so please don’t leave wet waders in a hot car over the weekend.

We engineer all Patagonia waders and wading pants to be easily machine-washed and dried. It’s a good practice to wash your waders before they start looking dirty or smelling less-than-fresh. We recommend washing and drying after fishing different drainages, as this limits the transfer of invasive species between waterways. Before storing for an extended period, wash and dry waders.

Proper care symbols are printed in all our waders. Here are some helpful instructions:

We suggest machine washing separately in cold water with a mild detergent in an agitator-less washing machine for regular cleaning of dirt and body oils. Open zippers and pockets for the most thorough clean. If using a washing machine with a center agitator, be sure to use the delicate cycle. After draining, follow with a low-heat tumble dry cycle, which helps kill invasives.

Begin the dry cycle with the waders inside-out, and then reverse once the linings of the booties feel dry. Finish with a low-heat tumble dry, and you’re all set!

To freshen and to help break the alkaline bond that comes from fishing brackish water, 1/4 cup of distilled white vinegar can be substituted for the mild detergent in the above process. Vinegar also helps remove invasive species and strips away body odor retention that arises from detergent buildup.

Do not bleach, iron, dry clean, or use fabric softeners.

Fish hard, fish often, and fish clean.

Here are some tips on how to extend the life of your boots and keep you on the water longer for seasons of good fishing.

For non-leather wading boots, the most essential cleaning step is to brush away debris and rinse with fresh water after every outing. When fishing brackish water, it can be helpful to spray distilled white vinegar on the surface of the boots to break the chemical bond these alkaline waters create. Follow with a freshwater rinse. Ensure the boots are completely dry before storing and store in a dry location. Keeping wet boots in a hot car for an extended time can lead to damage and sole separation. Products like Barge Cement or Shoe Goo can be useful to re-glue a separated sole.

It is also important to brush away debris and rinse with fresh water after each day on the water for leather wading boots. Using a soft- or medium bristle brush or a clean shop rag should be enough to loosen dirt, mud, and sand. Remove insoles and rinse, then thoroughly drain the boots.

To dry leather wading boots, feel free to use a boot dryer—the low heat and slow movement of dry air are best for overnight drying. Alternatively, rolled newsprint can also gently absorb moisture—change rolls until dry, then recycle. Never dry your boots directly near an intense heat source (i.e., fire, a hairdryer, direct sunlight, or next to a space heater).

Condition full-grain leather boots when the leather starts to look dried-out, or every 3-6 months. Please remember, leather is not indestructible; improper care will cause it to harden and crack. Leather consistently getting wet and drying out will speed this up without regular conditioning. Conditioning is easy and usually takes a few minutes for each boot. Using your hands or a soft rag, coat the leather in a water- or silicone-based conditioner. If you notice a buildup of conditioner around stitching or hardware, use a cotton swab to remove the excess. Let them sit overnight to allow the conditioner to soak in, then use a soft rag to wipe off excess. If you are using a water repellent, make sure to apply this after the conditioner, but not until your boots are completely dry.

The leather in Patagonia wading boots is treated to be waterproof but can lose effectiveness over time. Waterproof your boots 2-3 times per year; the Danner Waterproofing Spray or Gel are recommended.

We’ve spent years developing and field testing Patagonia Wetsuits to assure a good balance of performance and durability. But no wetsuit lasts forever. Proper care will maximize your suit’s life expectancy.

Rinse your wetsuit with fresh water and hang-dry it inside out after every session. Do not dry or store in direct sun. Avoid folding to prevent creases. If you need to wash your wetsuit, we recommend washing by hand with a wetsuit-specific cleaner. We use and suggest Pau Pilau Biological Wetsuit Cleaner; Dr. Bronner’s liquid soaps are good too. Never use a washing machine, dryer, drycleaner or bleach. See Wetsuit Care for more information.

If you need to return your wetsuit for repair, please download and follow the instructions on our Wetsuit Repair and Warranty Form.