Surf Stories

Ted Grambeau
Surf Ambassador Mary Osborne Lends a Hand with Free Wheelchair Mission
Surf Ambassador Mary Osborne Lends a Hand with Free Wheelchair Mission
Surf Ambassador Mary Osborne Lends a Hand with Free Wheelchair Mission

Patagonia surf ambassador Mary Osborne just sent word that she’s going to be helping surf legend Robert August and Free Wheelchair Mission distribute 10,000 wheelchairs in Costa Rica. The project will be documented in a series of short videos narrated by Mary, Robert and Robert’s son, Sam August. We’ll try and wrangle a firsthand report…

1 min Read
Shaun Tomson: I Will Catch a Wave Every Day, Even in My Mind
Shaun Tomson: I Will Catch a Wave Every Day, Even in My Mind
Shaun Tomson: I Will Catch a Wave Every Day, Even in My Mind

This past Monday evening surfing great Shaun Tomson gave a slideshow presentation to a packed house at our Ventura retail store, Great Pacific Iron Works. Brett from the GPIW staff sent over some pictures from the event and a short writeup (more photos after the jump). Patagonia once again outdoes itself by bringing in a…

2 min Read
Mary Osborne Shreds and Serves in Central America
Mary Osborne Shreds and Serves in Central America
Mary Osborne Shreds and Serves in Central America

A few months back we posted an update from Mary Osborne on her involvement with Robert August’s Free Wheelchair Mission down in Costa Rica. Mary put together a short video of her trip to Central America, including some sweet footage of her surfing and some pics from her time volunteering at the wheelchair event. [Music…

1 min Read
Is Global Warming Affecting the Surf?
Is Global Warming Affecting the Surf?
Is Global Warming Affecting the Surf?
Belinda Baggs

Global warming may be a mainstream issue now, but it’s far from being cut and dry. Some people think it’s a myth (read the comments), some think it’s the end of the world and the rest see it as something in between. The scope and complexity of the problem naturally raises more questions than answers.…

3 min Read
Gerry Lopez on the SEA Paddle Around Manhattan
Gerry Lopez on the SEA Paddle Around Manhattan
Gerry Lopez on the SEA Paddle Around Manhattan
Gerry Lopez

By Gerry Lopez Inspired by his good friend Don King – who is making a documentary about his son who has autism – Patagonia ambassador Gerry Lopez recently participated in the Surfers’ Environmental Alliance (SEA) Paddle NYC White Water fundraiser to raise money and awareness for autism. The event consisted of the first-ever 28-mile surf…

11 min Read
What Is Your Surf Spot Worth?
What Is Your Surf Spot Worth?
What Is Your Surf Spot Worth?

The surf’s up in Ventura today and even though surface conditions were not perfect this morning, there’s definitely a buzz around the office. If you paddle out today, consider taking part in the following survey after your session. Thanks to Patagoniac Chad Nelsen for this submission: Researchers at UCLA are studying 22 surf spots in…

3 min Read
Dan Malloy on Surfing Liberia
Dan Malloy on Surfing Liberia
Dan Malloy on Surfing Liberia
Dan Malloy

When Dan Malloy came back from Liberia surfers around the office were asking him how the trip was, anxiously hoping to hear about perfect waves. Dan, humble as ever, spoke well of the trip and the waves but you could hear in his voice and see in his eyes that it wasn’t a typical surf…

3 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 1
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 1
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 1
Gerry Lopez

On November 10, 2007, Devon Howard and the Patagonia Cardiff staff hosted a very special event at the shop. Here’s Devon to tell you more: Storytelling in any form has always fascinated me. Whether penning a tale, shooting photos, helping make a surf film or just leafing through a good read, I always become completely…

4 min Read
Surf Their Waves—Even When They Tell You Not To
Surf Their Waves—Even When They Tell You Not To
Surf Their Waves—Even When They Tell You Not To
William Kaner

They say it’s bad to surf after a rain. I disagree. I have empirical evidence that shows they are wrong. I don’t get sick. Never have. And I used to live in Venice Beach. They never reported the water quality at my local break better than a D+. I saw it as a challenge. It…

4 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 2
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 2
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 2

Be sure and check out Part 1 if you missed it and keep an eye on the men’s and women’s surf pages at Patagonia.com,or here at The Cleanest Line, for Part 3 coming soon. Also, stay tuned for details on Gerry’s newbook Surf is Where You Find It. If you like surfing and an intimate…

1 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 3
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 3
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 3
Gerry Lopez

The Talkin’ Pipe series continues with Gerry & Jock reminiscing about the ’70s. They discuss a few of the breaks that prepared them for Pipeline, the board designs from that era and some of the masters who rode them so well. If you’re new to the series, take a gander at Part 1 and Part…

1 min Read
Ari Lurie in the South Pacific: Sitting on the Shoulder
Ari Lurie in the South Pacific: Sitting on the Shoulder
Ari Lurie in the South Pacific: Sitting on the Shoulder

This story was sent to us by Ari Lurie from Tahiti. He is an avid outrigger paddler and surfer. ‘Haole go home.’  This glaring message was scrawled across a building in the center of town.  I was visiting the port of Fare on the beautiful French Polynesian island of Huahine.  I smiled at its bluntness…

2 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 4
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 4
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 4
Gerry Lopez

The Talkin’ Pipe video series continues with Gerry and Jock reminiscing about the Expression Session of 1970. Definitely some classic stories in here. Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3 are available for those new to the series, and there’s more to come. Thanks again to Devon Howard and the crew at Patagonia’s Cardiff Surf…

1 min Read
Gerry Lopez Remembers Terror at Jaws
Gerry Lopez Remembers Terror at Jaws
Gerry Lopez Remembers Terror at Jaws
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez [Editor's note: In honor of his new book Surf Is Where You Find It, we're stoked to have Gerry Lopez sit in as guest editor. Stay tuned for seven days of stories from one of surfing's finest.] As I hurried towards the baggage claim at the airport in Kahului, Maui, I noticed…

22 min Read
Rob Machado Is the Coolest Surfer of Modern Times
Rob Machado Is the Coolest Surfer of Modern Times
Rob Machado Is the Coolest Surfer of Modern Times
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez Surf heroes become recognized for accomplishments that set them apart. Kelly Slater and Andy Irons battled fiercely for world championship titles among a field of surfers of extraordinary ability. Laird Hamilton rode bigger and more dangerous waves than anyone had before, which paved the way for others to make their own big…

6 min Read
The Demise of the Ditch: Remembering a Top-Secret Surf Spot
The Demise of the Ditch: Remembering a Top-Secret Surf Spot
The Demise of the Ditch: Remembering a Top-Secret Surf Spot
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez Since it’s gone, I guess there’s no reason to keep the secret any longer. What we had was a pretty neat surf spot almost 200 miles from the ocean. For the last three years, it’s been double top secret. Even so, like everything else in the surfing world, the word got out.…

12 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 5
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 5
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 5
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez Jock Sutherland was my first and foremost hero at the Pipeline. It somehow seemed destined that my first time out on a small empty day as a sophomore in high school, Jock would paddle out and give me a key tip on how to surf the difficult place. It would be the…

2 min Read
Filming “North Shore” with Randall Kleiser
Filming “North Shore” with Randall Kleiser
Filming “North Shore” with Randall Kleiser
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez The telephone rang on a lazy day, there wasn’t any surf so I was just relaxing on the couch doing nothing. “Gerry, this is Randall Kleiser calling, I met you once with John Milius, and he suggested I call you. I’m making a movie about surfing, and I’d like you to be…

9 min Read
What It’s Like Inside the Tube
What It’s Like Inside the Tube
What It’s Like Inside the Tube
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez I have been asked many times what it’s like being inside a tube. My short answer is simple, “it’s great.” The long answer is quite a bit more involved. To get inside a tube long enough to have time to think about what it’s like requires a long list of factors. Luck…

4 min Read
Surfing with Buddy
Surfing with Buddy
Surfing with Buddy
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez Except for his rather large collection of blues records, there were not, in a material sense, a lot of other things Buddy Dumphy considered important or worthy of much thought. Even his surfboards were considered transient – tools to be used and sometimes abused – only stepping-stones to the next board. We…

12 min Read
Anxiety and Ecstasy in the Age of Online Surf Forecasting
Anxiety and Ecstasy in the Age of Online Surf Forecasting
Anxiety and Ecstasy in the Age of Online Surf Forecasting
Gerry Lopez

by Gerry Lopez Yesterday I scored big. It was one of those rare days which left me so pumped up when it was over I knew I was going to have trouble falling asleep last night. [Editor's note: This story was originally written in November 2007] I figured I better write it down before the…

15 min Read
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 6
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 6
Gerry Lopez and Jock Sutherland – Talkin’ Pipe Pt. 6
Gerry Lopez

The Talkin’ Pipe video series concludes with Gerry and Jock riffing on Kelly Slater and Backdoor. If you’re new to the series, visit the Talkin’ Pipe page at Patagonia.com to watch parts 1 – 5. And while you’re there, consider picking up a copy of Gerry’s new book Surf Is Where You Find It. Sadly,…

2 min Read
Lakey Peterson Reports From Australia
Lakey Peterson Reports From Australia
Lakey Peterson Reports From Australia

It’s never too soon to learn the tradition of story telling. Today we bring you the words of Santa Barbara super-grom, and FCD Surfboards team rider, 13-year-old Lakey Peterson.  Right now I’m traveling through Australia, surfing with my mom and dad. We started in Noosa, where there was a worldwide surf festival going on. It…

3 min Read
Beach of the King: A Personal History of Playa Del Rey
Beach of the King: A Personal History of Playa Del Rey
Beach of the King: A Personal History of Playa Del Rey
localcrew

DJ Dukesherer’s path to becoming an author was less direct than the one that led him to surfing. Paddling the deep blue waters off the coast of Playa Del Rey with his father were a defining element of his childhood. Mr. Dukesherer’s ocean roots sunk deep into the sands of Playa Del Rey. Through his…

5 min Read
Sliding Liberia Being Shown & Introduced by the Directors Tomorrow at Patagonia Palo Alto
Sliding Liberia Being Shown & Introduced by the Directors Tomorrow at Patagonia Palo Alto
Sliding Liberia Being Shown & Introduced by the Directors Tomorrow at Patagonia Palo Alto

The Patagoonies in Palo Alto are getting revved up for an extra-special event this weekend. We are proud to announce that directors, Stanford University students, and friends of Patagonia, Nicholai Lidow and Britt Caillouette, will be introducing the surf documentary Sliding Liberia at 7 pm on Saturday, June 7, in our shop on Alma Street.…

2 min Read
Gerry Lopez Shares the History Behind our Cotton Boardshorts
Gerry Lopez Shares the History Behind our Cotton Boardshorts
Gerry Lopez Shares the History Behind our Cotton Boardshorts
Gerry Lopez

Our board shorts line has a new addition with a long history. The Patagonia Organic Cotton Canvas Boardshorts, or Palaka shorts as they were originally known, come with a special heritage in not only the surf world but old Hawaii as well. When I started surfing in the late 1950s, Palaka shorts were one of…

2 min Read
Sliding Liberia DVD Now Available; Release Party Tomorrow in Santa Monica
Sliding Liberia DVD Now Available; Release Party Tomorrow in Santa Monica
Sliding Liberia DVD Now Available; Release Party Tomorrow in Santa Monica

If you’re a regular reader of The Cleanest Line you’re no doubt familiar with this unique surf movie featuring Patagonia ambassadors Crystal Thornburg and Dan Malloy. We’ve shared stories from the trip, told you about various screenings and shared a picture of one of Dan’s FCD boards that he left behind being used by a…

1 min Read
LIVE: A Music and Surfing Experience
LIVE: A Music and Surfing Experience
LIVE: A Music and Surfing Experience

Patagonia ambassador Mary Osborne sends word about the premiere of Live: A Music and Surfing Experience, a new surf film by David Parsa. From Mary, "It’s a killer movie about surfing and music from the ’50s to the present." Surfing Magazine says of the film, "Live: A Music and Surfing Experience dances through each decade…

2 min Read
Surf Imagery at the Cardiff Store
Surf Imagery at the Cardiff Store
Surf Imagery at the Cardiff Store

Surf stoke is such a positive feeling. It enriches our lives and makes us better people. Surf art has a way of rekindling the stoke when we’re not in the water — it transports us back to the ocean in our minds and hearts. The crew at Patagonia’s Cardiff surf shop have just such a…

2 min Read
Trestle Toll Road vs. World-Class Surf Breaks in Cardiff
Trestle Toll Road vs. World-Class Surf Breaks in Cardiff
Trestle Toll Road vs. World-Class Surf Breaks in Cardiff

On September 22, thousands of citizens attended yet another hearing on the proposed "Trestles" toll road. The hearing was held by the U.S. Secretary of Commerce, who promised to make his decision between October 24, 2008 and January 7, 2009. As we begin the official waiting period for the verdict, let’s get a recap of…

4 min Read
Wood is Good (Pt. 1) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards Video Series
Wood is Good (Pt. 1) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards Video Series
Wood is Good (Pt. 1) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards Video Series

Devon Howard, manager of Patagonia’s Cardiff Surf Shop, has put together another stellar event for his customers – and recorded it for all of us who couldn’t be there in person. Tune in each day, from now until Monday, as we bring you Tom Wegener’s talk at Patagonia Cardiff. The first video of the four-part…

3 min Read
Wood is Good (Pt. 2) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 2) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 2) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards

YouTube version: Wood is Good Pt. 2 See Part One of the series for an introduction to Tom by Devon Howard and to watch the first chapter of the video. Visit Patagonia Cardiff or Tom Wegener Surfboards to see the boards.

1 min Read
Wood is Good (Pt. 3) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 3) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 3) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards

YouTube version: Wood is Good Pt. 3 Previously: Part 1 and Part 2. We’ll conclude the series tomorrow. Visit Patagonia Cardiff or Tom Wegener Surfboards to see the boards. With thanks to Devon Howard. 

1 min Read
Wood is Good (Pt. 4) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 4) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards
Wood is Good (Pt. 4) – Tom Wegener’s Alaia Surfboards

YouTube version: Wood is Good Pt. 4 Here it is, the final installment of Tom Wegener’s "Wood is Good" talk at Patagonia Cardiff and what a treat this series has been (see parts 1, 2 & 3). The footage of Dave Rastovich in today’s chapter is mind blowing. Though far from mainstream, Alaias are here…

1 min Read
Backyard Adventures: A Mid-Atlantic Surf Hunt in DelMarVa
Backyard Adventures: A Mid-Atlantic Surf Hunt in DelMarVa
Backyard Adventures: A Mid-Atlantic Surf Hunt in DelMarVa

From the frosty summits of Rocky Mountain National Park, to the sultry sea of the eastern shore, our Backyard Adventurers are taking us on a grand tour of some of some true surprises. Grab a brew, pull up a chair, and enjoy as Mark Carter takes us along on his hunt for secret mid-Atlantic surf:…

8 min Read
A Conversation with Ben Keller, Director of “BlueGreen” Surf Film
A Conversation with Ben Keller, Director of “BlueGreen” Surf Film
A Conversation with Ben Keller, Director of “BlueGreen” Surf Film

As The Present prepares to head east, we'd like to share news about a different kind of surf film. Ben Keller of Dubious Honor Productions, and friend of Patagonia's El Pescador, is about to take his award-winning film BlueGreen on a 14-show west-coast tour starting this Friday, April 10, in Seattle, Washington. A new surfboard…

3 min Read
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