How to Wash Your Waterproof Jacket
Washing and machine-drying your shell are essential steps to reactivate water repellency and add years to your gear.
Why Is It Important to Wash a Waterproof Jacket?
Dirt, body oil, sunscreen, smoke and peanut butter smears can all degrade durable water repellent (DWR) performance. Thankfully, it’s nothing a little laundry can’t fix.
Washing your waterproof clothing with a mild detergent made for technical gear (often called “waterproof detergent”) and drying it on low heat removes oils and other contaminants that affect performance and prevent the materials from breaking down prematurely. It also helps prolong the life of your gear so you can keep using it for years of soggy, sweaty conditions to come.
Washing Your Waterproof Jacket: A Step-by-Step Guide
How Do You Know It’s Time to Wash?
It depends. If it looks dirty, wash and dry it. If you see “wet out”—when just the exterior of the fabric looks wet—that’s another sign to clean your waterproof jacket. (Wet out is a normal process. You’ll usually first spot it in areas that get the most friction, like your cuffs or your shoulders where your pack straps sit.)
As a rule of thumb, we recommend washing waterproof jackets made without perfluorinated chemicals like PFAS after wearing the garment 7–10 times or after a long trip. Those with PFAS can typically be washed after 30 times of use.
If water still doesn’t bead up on your shell after a wash and dry, then it’s time to re-proof it. Choose a waterproofing solution that doesn’t use PFAS, available online and at most outdoor gear stores. We recommend Storm Eco Proofer. Wash-in treatments can be easier to use because they coat the entire item in the wash, but spray-on options are as effective so long as you’re vigilant about covering all areas. Here’s how to reapply DWR.
The Best Detergents for Washing a Waterproof Jacket
Standard detergents can impact the durable water repellent finish and lead to premature wetting out—when the exterior of the fabric looks wet because the DWR coating has worn off, but the inside (and you) aren’t wet. We recommend using detergent made for waterproof jackets or technical outerwear. You can also look for mild detergent options at your local store. Choose a water-based (not oil-based) biodegradable liquid detergent free of dyes, whiteners, brighteners or fragrance. Look for detergents for sensitive skin. If it’s safe for sensitive skin, it’s safe for your gear.
How Does Waterproof Clothing Work?
DWR is a coating added to waterproof garments to help moisture bead up and roll off the outer surface. It prevents the fabric from becoming soaked from the outside and prevents you from getting cold, clammy or wet, which could be life-threatening in extreme conditions. The membrane part of the fabric is the actual “engine” of your waterproof gear. It’s the physical material barrier inside a laminated fabric that keeps water from getting in and allows water vapor, sweat and heat to escape. DWR is an extra protective coating; the membrane is the workhorse.
For decades now, DWR coatings have relied on per- or polyfluorinated chemicals (most often referred to by their acronyms: PFCs, PFAS, PFOAs or PFOS). They’re strong, heat-stable, and water- and oil-repellent chemicals, and on waterproof gear, they’re typically applied to the exterior of the fabric and the membrane. They are extremely effective at repelling water, but these nonbiodegradable chemicals come with an environmental cost, particularly during the manufacturing phase and after the gear has lived its useful life because these garments are more challenging to reuse and reprocess.
That’s why since Spring 2025 all our new styles are made without intentionally added PFAS. (PFAS, which stands for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, is the latest terminology to encompass this class of perfluorinated chemicals. We use PFAS as an umbrella term, but at Patagonia, if your water-repellent finishes and membranes are made without PFAS, they’re also made without PFCs, PFOS and PFOAs.)
Learn more about our commitment to making gear without PFAS.
Do Different Shells Require Different Care?
All waterproof, breathable gear—regardless of construction (2L, 2.5L, 3L), membrane type (monolithic, microporous, hydrophilic, hydrophobic), material provider (GORE-TEX), or chemistry (fluorinated, nonfluorinated)—requires the same simple wash and care. It’s as true of your Torrentshell from 15 years ago as it is of your new Triolet.
One exception is naturally water-repellent gear, like waxed cotton. To preserve its function and longevity, spot-clean only as needed. Never put waxed cotton in the wash or dryer, and never iron or steam it. In short, wax, don’t wash.
